Paris is known for many things—the city of lights, the city of romance—but design is not likely to be at the top of the list. When the subject of French design comes up in conversation, most Americans would be hard pressed to think of a designer other than cross-disciplinary visionary Philippe Starck, the larger-than-life Parisian. He’s the design world equivalent
of a rock star, primarily known for his design of hotels including New York City’s Royalton and Paramount, sleek modern furniture (his Louis Ghost chair is a stunning polycarbonate homage to Louis XV style),
and range of clever, iconic industrial design products. There is also Jean-Paul Goude, whose career has encompassed art direction at
Esquire and fashion photography to music videos that immortalized Grace Jones as an Amazon-like disco goddess.
FRENCH DESIGN PRIMER
Historically, the French are known for fine art—a virtual who’s who
of the world’s most beautiful paintings and sculpture from
David and Delacroix to Picasso and Rodin—not for graphic
design, even though poster design as social commentary does have
a long tradition in France, as in other parts of Europe.
Design history buffs might find me negligent if I overlooked
the impact and contributions of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-
1901) and A.M. Cassandre (1901-1968) when setting the stage for a
contemporary practitioner like Sandrine Pagnoux. Toulouse-Lautrec, while primarily known as a painter, he was also an Art
Nouveau-era illustrator and lithographer who happily recorded
the bohemian life of Paris at the end of the 19th century—before
it killed him—including illustrations for humor magazine, Le
Rire. Cassandre, who migrated from Russia at age 14, was successful
enough with his early poster work that he was able to start his
own advertising agency, Alliance Graphique Internationale. He
worked with diverse clients during the 1930s, including Dubonnet.
We may be able to blame him in part for the advent of the billboard:
The posters he created for Dubonnet were among the first
specifically designed to catch a motorist’s attention. The poster of
the ship Normandie is Cassandre’s most famous design from that
era. He is also responsible for the ubiquitous, iconic Yves Saint-Laurent logo (1963) that still denotes class with a capital C.
DESPENTES, personal work, October 2005.
FRENCH DESIGN ARRIVES
Today posters advertising stores, films, and theater and dance
performances decorate the metro system and kiosks throughout
Paris. But the truth is that the French are simply not as obsessed
with the topic of design as their American counterparts.
Modern French graphic design began to flourish after the 1968
riots. Most notably with the advent of the design collective Grapus
(1970–1990), originally formed by Pierre Bernard, Gérard Paris-
Clavel, and Francois Miehe (and later joined by Jean-Paul Bachollet
and Alex Jordan). Atelier de Création Graphique, founded by
Bernard, and Paris-Clavel’s Les Graphistes Associés continued
to advance their design ideals and inspire students. For Bernard
and Paris-Clavel, who studied with famed Polish poster designer
Henryk Tomaszewski, design must function as a public service, a
strong distinction between how design is viewed in France—in part
because of its strong tradition of poster design—and the U.S., where
design most often needs to sell something. The Atelier has designed
the graphic identity of the Louvre Museum, the visual identity of
the French National Parks and Job-Scheufelen papers, and signage
for the Centre Pompidou, among others. “I believed that graphic
communication could be an instrument of social change when
applied to cultural institutions,” Bernard has said.
“I never think about [the] public,” Bernard told me in a 1993
interview in San Francisco (he had come as part of the San Francisco
AIGA design lecture series that year, along with Goude). “And here
all the designers are thinking about their public. For me design is for
all public—it is not for gods, it is for human beings. That’s all.”
ARCHIVE YEUX (ARCHIVE EYES), illustration inspired by trip-hop music, February 2005.
While the world’s attention has been directed to various countries
and their exported design style trends over the last several
decades—think Switzerland or the Netherlands—relatively little
design news has emerged from France. But that could be changing.
When not distracted by the shocking amount of graffiti defacing
landmark buildings throughout Paris, one can see many examples
of modern, elegant, and fresh design for a variety of products and
cultural events on kiosks and billboards.
“At last, the French design scene is
booming,” says Paris-born Erik Adigard,
cofounder of the interdisciplinary
design firm M-A-D, in Sausalito,
Calif. Adigard has produced editorial,
interface, and concept designs
for Wired and Microsoft and counts
the Chrysler Award for Innovation
in Design among his achievements.
“I participated in the Chaumont Festival last year and was
blown away by the intensity and breadth of design,” Adigard
relates. The festival began 17 years ago when design critic Alain
Weill took steps to establish a home for French poster design, hoping
to put France on the international design map (like other festival
sites in Brno, Czech Republic, and Lahti, Finland). “As a whole,
the event was more momentous, fresh, and engaged than any typical
AIGA poster exhibit. This phenomenon is mostly noticeable as
expressionist print design, in the same way that web design stood
out from other disciplines in the ’90s design scene of Scandinavia.”
EXPLOSIVE DESIGN
“Each page must explode whether by its deep and heavyweight gravity,
by its dizziness, its novelty, its eternity, its crushing joke, the
enthusiasm of its principles, or the way it is printed,” stated poet and
essayist Tristan Tzara in 1918, speaking of the graphics revolution
fomented by the Dada movement, of which he was a founder.
Tzara’s quote perfectly describes the impact of Sandrine Pagnoux’s
layered designs. Part of the latest wave of French design,
she marries traditional forms with her interest in the world of
technology. Using photographs as her starting point, she adds
layer upon layer of calligraphy, color, and illustration until the
piece explodes with meaning and impact. Her work at times
approximates a wall of aged graffiti, evidence of the culture swirling
around her. Perhaps in part, this is her homage to the Paris-based
artist known as Miss Tic, whose social commentary—what
she calls pochoirs des rues—has been stenciled on walls throughout
Paris since 1985.