In the early 1990s, when misinformation about AIDS was widely circulated and social stigma deep-rooted, COLORS’ AIDS issue equipped young people with the facts in a forthright tone that Stowell describes as: “Here's the information you need, otherwise you might die.”
INTELLECTUAL CONTORTIONISM
There was, in fact, a rightness to much of what went on
at M&Co., whose ranks were filled with impeccably
trained designers, many of whom had cut their teeth
at corporate identity firms. Colorblind though it was,
Kalman’s eye had an otherwise precision-engineered
quality, including an ability, which Douglas Riccardi,
principal of Memo Productions, describes as “admirably,
freakishly, scarily good,” to zero in on the one
concept, among hundreds of sketches, that was incontestably
right. “To me,” says Oberman, “that talent
was as important as having done the sketch in the first
place. He could take a great idea and make it better.
And often it would be better because he pushed it a little
bit more in the wrong direction.”
That so many M&Co. designers were versed in the rules put the firm in a more authoritative position
to break them. Amid the piles of portfolios M&Co. amassed daily—one festooned in pink faux
fur, another bursting with fake album covers—there would be a lone manila folder from a Swiss-trained
designer. “And that would be the person Tibor would hire,” says Riccardi, who himself had
worked at corporate identity firm Anspach Grossman Portugal prior to joining M&Co. in 1986. “It
allowed the design process to stay where it should,” he says, “which is at the conceptual level. If we
came to grips with the concept, if we agreed on whatever it was we were trying to achieve, he would
trust that we’d pick the right typefaces and colors, but we didn’t waste too much time talking about
those things. So I think that part of his ‘thinking wrong’ was that he was just thinking, period.”
As creative vice president of Bumble and bumble Alexander Brebner remembers, working at
M&Co. required that he suspend what years of training had taught him as proper and right. During
his tenure from 1986 to 1991, he spent a good deal of time wondering whether his work was “wrong
enough, or wrong in the right way,” a process he describes as a kind of intellectual contortionism,
both draining and liberating. “It can be exhausting to incorporate that kind of ‘thinking wrong’ into
your ethos,” he says. “You have to constantly be prepared to ask if there’s another way. And of course
there always is, but you have to dig and dig. You have to go through the looking glass and put yourself
in a backward context in order to contort your thinking.”
COLORS’ courtship of controversy was one of many ways the magazine distinguished itself from conventional mainstream media.
A TIBOR ANGEL OR DEVIL
To this day, Kalman’s creative direction is part of Brebner’s process, an inner critic he calls “either a
Tibor angel or devil” that sits on his shoulder, questioning whether his work could be better, different, whether he’s settling for just good enough. While the intensity of that voice has diminished in
recent years, Brebner says that one look at Kalman’s portrait on the cover of Perverse Optimist, from
which his former boss smiles up at him, is enough to activate the running commentary.
Upon Kalman’s untimely death in 1999, a reporter from TIME called Doyle to see if he might provide
a few famous examples of this celebrated designer’s work, projects that the mainstream would
recognize. For a moment, Doyle was tempted to fabricate a list of all the familiar work—the Exxon
and IBM logos, for example, and the Heinz ketchup bottle—that Kalman never produced. Had
Doyle succumbed to the temptation, the stunt might well have made the point that M&Co. operated
neither for nor in the mainstream but against its grain. It also would have raised a one-fingered salute
to the establishment, one last time, on Kalman’s behalf. “It would have been a fitting tribute,” says
Doyle, “But ultimately, I knew TIME had a weapon against that kind of thinking: fact checkers.”