BS: How did you and Bea get to be co-art directors?
RA: The story goes that in the midst of a heated argument Marvin
told the editor to go fuck herself. Need I say more?
BS: What was it like working with Diana Vreeland?
Cover silkscreen of Jimmy Carter for Sept. 26, 1976, issue of NY TIMES MAGAZINE. Art Director, Designer: Ansel; Artist: Andy Warhol.
RA: The power of Diana Vreeland was that at
the time I worked with her she had the ability
to go to any designer and have them make special
things for Bazaar. Boots or sports clothes
or caftans for evening. She would say things
like, “The bikini is the biggest thing since the
atom bomb.” She inspired a generation of designers
and photographers to seek the new. The
magazine was a guide to designers; now the designer
is a guide to the magazine and the established
magazines take no risks.
BS: You worked with Richard Avedon and many other amazing
photographers at Bazaar and created incredible images. Can you
talk about how you worked with them?
RA: The outstanding experience for me working with Avedon
was when he guest edited Bazaar’s April 1965 issue. It was an issue
devoted to youth culture—Pop, Rock, and the Sexual Revolution.
This issue was our attempt to create a magazine on the highest
level. It was our way of conceptualizing a magazine from cover to
cover with Dick [Avedon] acting as both the editor and sole photographer.
It flowed like a piece of music. It was to tell everything
that was current and future in art, fashion, science, and music.
We got permission from NASA to put model Jean Shrimpton
in a space suit and photograph her on our cover and inside our
issue as the first woman astronaut. It caused a sensation. That
was well before its time, nobody believed a woman would become
an astronaut, and of course we know differently now. We felt the
magazine should reflect the sense of the contemporary scene
at the time, so we asked rising talents like the sculptor George
Segal, the painters Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Robert
Rauschenberg to work with us. The issue was filled with the newest
and most advanced young writers—Renata Adler, Bruce Jay
Friedman, and so on. But the issue scared a lot of people at the top
at Bazaar. They had started to become concerned with the economics
of the market and turned their back on anything original
or artistic. This signaled that the ship was beginning to sink.
Shortly thereafter, Dick left for Vogue to follow Vreeland, and a
creative door had clearly been shut forever.
Dick had a passionate eye for capturing the moment, which I
recognized from the time I met him to the time he suddenly died
last October. His was a restless energy, active, always on, endlessly
full of curiosity. Together with that energy he had an uncanny
ability to persuade anybody to do practically anything in front
of his camera. He could and did charm everybody. More people
shed their clothes for Dick than any other photographer I know. It
made for some memorable shoots.
He also was never satisfied. He often sent me
back to the drawing board and said, “Go back
and go deeper, you can do better.” He could be
devastating, but mostly he was right. The thing
about working with him I treasure the most
was that he refused to allow me to accept my
own limitations. It was difficult, but often it
was worth the pain. I miss him and his pursuit
of perfection.
December 1986 Madonna cover of VANITY FAIR. Art Director, Designer: Ansel; Photographer: Herb Ritts.
BS: Then you became art director of The New York Times Magazine
[1974–1981]. How hard was the transition to such an entirely
different environment?
RA: Not very because I never saw myself as someone exclusively
belonging to fashion. Remember, it was a devastating time. They
were shooting down our heroes. First President Kennedy was
assassinated, then Martin Luther King, and finally Bobby Kennedy.
They were my heroes. I needed to learn more about what was
really going on in America … to become engaged and enter into the
public conversation.
BS: How did you get that job?
RA: The incomparable Lou Silverstein, the art director responsible
for changing all the graphics at The Times for the better, called
me for an interview when he found out I was between jobs. I knew
I wasn’t a good fit for the daily newspaper, but I thought maybe
the magazine might be worth exploring. In truth I was scared
about the whole proposition and secretly hoped he wouldn’t call.
I was a notorious procrastinator. Deadlines drove me crazy, and a
major newspaper is all about relentless deadlines.
Eventually there was an opening and what followed was a most
bizarre experience. I was invited to lunch for a final interview with
Lou, Max Frankel, and Charlotte Curtis, and came totally unprepared.
Max turned to me at one point and said, “Ruth, what are
you going to bring to The New York Times?” Silence. I froze for
what seemed like minutes.
BS: So what did you say?
RA: I finally said, “I would like to try to bring the magazine into
the 20th century.” I thought that was it for me … yet I was miraculously
hired. The payback was I didn’t get much sleep for the following
seven years but I learned to meet impossible deadlines.
BS: The covers are so amazing and so memorable. I feel like I remember
them all.
RA: I took some calculated risks. One had to do with deadline
pressures. The editor would have three articles in the works as
potential cover stories. I wouldn’t know until Thursday which one
he would finally choose. It was a race to the finish every Friday. I
had to choose where to put most of my energies—on the cover or
inside the magazine. I chose the cover. The type design in those
issues suffered—I wasn’t proud of that—and there were press problems.
Keep in mind that in the late ’70s the only section in the
newspaper that wasn’t printed in black and white was the magazine.
I took full advantage of the situation by deliberately setting
out to create poster images for each cover, which were intentionally
different from week to week. The element of visual surprise
was part of the fun and the challenge. It was also my good fortune
to be able to introduce photographers such as Mary Ellen Mark,
Gilles Peress, and Bill King, as well as artists and illustrators from
all over the world that hadn’t been seen in the magazine before.
Many of the emerging artists in New York were personal friends.
Warhol, Lichtenstien, and Rosenquist had worked with me at
Bazaar. What better place than The New York Times Magazine to
show their brilliant work? It gave me great pleasure to know that
these images were going to be seen from Idaho to Moscow.