Everyone wants to be beautiful. Men just don’t like to talk about it. But the market for men’s “cosmaceuticals” has grown by leaps and bounds,
with no end in sight. All those morning-after, under-eye circles, those
ragged nails, and dull, dead skin buildup will soon be a thing of the past, if
the men’s grooming industry has its way. This quiet revolution began with
men raiding the medicine cabinet, using their wives’ or girlfriends’ beauty
products. Now men are demanding their own products, and cosmetics
companies are happy to oblige. Designers have responded with clean, sans
serif typography and sleek, but buff, packaging—unfussy and unfeminine.
The business of selling beautifying products to men is booming.
Call them “grooming-aware,” “neo-masculines,” or what you will,
men in the mainstream are (mostly) unashamed of using products
formerly only used by women. And these are not just the stereotypically
vain, affluent swinging bachelors.
On Dec. 31, 2004, under a New York Times headline “Tough
Guys, Shapely Eyebrows,” one can find bus drivers, mechanics,
firemen, and construction workers who are waxing, tweezing,
getting seaweed wraps, manicures, and facials. Queer Eye for the
Straight Guy popularized the acceptability of (straight) male attention
to typically female concerns: moisturizing, hair care, exfoliation,
and yes, even makeup.
There has been an explosion of new products designed and
packaged to appeal to men. Tom Granese, founder of Regimens (a
retailer of personal grooming products “specifically designed from
a masculine perspective”), says, “The male segment of the beauty
category has an estimated annual value of $4.5 billion … it’s anticipated
to increase to $5.5 billion by 2006.”
Only a couple of years ago, a few pioneers tried and failed to
bridge the perception gap: L’Oréal launched Surface, a cosmetics
line for men including concealer, brow pencils, and eyeliner, which
only lasted a year and a half. Estée Lauder, under its Aramis label,
briefly launched a men’s cover-up The market wasn’t ready.
Now almost every major cosmetics company is catering to
metrosexuals, the fastest-growing segment of the personal grooming
category. Clarins, Lancôme, Nivea, Biotherm, and Shiseido
have either recently launched or are about to launch men’s lines.
Shiseido says “Even tough guys have a soft side. The design concept
for Shiseido Men was centered on the ideas of ‘toughness and
tenderness.’ The straight and curved lines of the package depict
this masculine contradiction with a hint of Japanese elegance.” Shiseido
Men’s “Anti-Shine Refresher” (for a matte facial finish) may
look tough but it incorporates pressed powder in its ingredients.