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Success and satisfaction, commitment and commercialization: Dutch designer Melle Hammer’s career embodies the balancing act that brings art and business to a successful communion.  
May/June 2007
Not Just for Love or Money
by Aaris Sherin

Melle Hammer lives his convictions. During a career that has spanned two decades, Hammer’s beliefs have compelled him to turn his back on his original profession, battle and engage big business and donate his skills to causes he thinks are important. From his studio in Amsterdam, Hammer makes work for the passion of design, for love … and for money.

Hammer’s creative process has little in common with the frenetic pace that characterizes many design studios. There never seems to be so much to do that he cannot accept an invitation to lunch with a friend in one of Amsterdam’s numerous cafés or prepare a gourmet dinner for an out-of-town guest. And yet Hammer is always working. Committed equally to paid and unpaid work, projects large and small, Hammer balances an almost laissez-faire lifestyle with a consuming belief that it is a designer’s responsibility to make work that is fitting for both the client and the audience.

A TURNING POINT
Hammer has not always been content to live and work on the fringes of one of Europe’s hottest design communities. After completing his studies, he found employment in the lucrative field of advertising design and went to work for companies whose brands were internationally recognized. Though success came easily, Hammer’s burgeoning career was interrupted when, over cocktails, the CEO of a luxury footwear label bragged that his wares were produced by children in Third World countries. Hammer began to question whether the social and environmental costs of the products he was promoting were too high.


(LEFT) BOOK COVER, CALLAHAN EN ANDERE GEDAANTEN, 2004, THREE-COLOR, CLIENT: UITGEVERIJ (CONTACT). ALTHOUGH THE DIMENSIONS OF EACH WORK IN THE POETRY SERIES PUBLISHED BY CONTACT STAY CONSISTENT, HAMMER CONTINUALLY REINVENTS HIS ASSIGNMENT, AND THE INTERIOR TYPOGRAPHY, PAPER CHOICE AND LAYOUT DIFFER FROM BOOK TO BOOK.
(CENTER) BOOK COVER, OERA LINDA, 2005, THREE-COLOR, CLIENT: UITGEVERIJ (CONTACT). WITHIN THE BOOK IS AN EXTRAORDINARY TYPOGRAPHICAL LANDSCAPE—LAYERS OF TEXT SEDUCE THE READER INTO DIGGING FOR WORDS. HAMMER ADMIRES THE WORK OF WRITERS WHO CAN TAKE YEARS TO COME UP WITH THESE 48-PAGE FOLIOS AND IS AWARE THE READER WILL BUILD A RELATIONSHIP WITH THE POETRY WITHIN: “THESE KIND OF BOOKS ARE NOT READ ONCE AND THEN PUT ASIDE, BUT COME BACK TO YOUR LAP EVERY NOW AND THEN. SO IT MAKES SENSE TO TAKE THE TIME TO CREATE AN OBJECT THAT IS WORTHWHILE.”

He switched jobs, working for companies that were supposedly more socially conscious. But a decade before Kathie Lee Gifford’s clothing line was pulled from stores because of child labor concerns, Hammer was unable to find employers whose business practices bore up under scrutiny. In a decisive move, he left both advertising and full-time commercial employment. He didn’t completely rule out working for large corporations, but decided to limit the projects he took on to those where his creative output would not be used by enterprises that he disagreed with. “In the past, I invented happenings for the new Levi’s or Nike models, and now I use the same skills for causes that matter to me—that seduce me with a question,” he says. “That’s happiness.”

Hammer has, by choice, made a life in the margins. Rejecting pressure and fame for relative anonymity allows him to make the kind of work he wants and to conduct creative experiments without predetermined expectations. Hammer is adamant that the ability and willingness to fail is necessary to make better design and believes that, “if one constantly wants only to be recognized for the work they do, the pressure will eventually cause them to make safe work, and their solutions will no longer fit the project, nor will they be timely or interesting.”

From the belief that failure is useful, and even necessary, has come a unique way of recycling less-successful outcomes into new assignments. Hammer often prefers to “live” with the evidence of an unhappy experience, embracing rather than discarding that which has fallen short.

To cut costs and minimize waste—even for paying jobs— Hammer will rummage through the ends from print runs and choose a stock that complements his design and utilizes existing, often free, materials. Such ingenuity has allowed him to produce award-winning book designs, objects and promotional materials for clients ranging from cultural institutions and publishers to neighborhood eateries.

CASE IN POINT #1
When a client rejected a Hammer-designed jewelry display system for being too experimental, the moving blankets that wrapped the shelving system were left in Hammer’s studio—detritus of a rejected project. After several months Hammer became convinced that he could give the pile of cheaply made and poor-quality fabric a second life. Drawing on his previous association with groups advocating for immigrants’ rights, Hammer began to see parallels between the disposable cloth in his studio and the challenges faced by displaced people.

Joining forces with a jewelry designer and a jailed immigrant tailor from Iran, the three collaborated to create a small line of couture suit jackets and trench coats from the leftover moving blankets. The resulting stylish, expertly cut coats will be exhibited and sold in galleries and store windows throughout Amsterdam, and the proceeds will help the Iranian tailor begin a new life in Holland.

BOOK COVERS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTER: BANJOMAN, 2006, TWO-COLOR; VOLLE MAAN, 2003, THREE-COLOR; LIEDJES, 2006, THREE-COLOR (TWO PASSES OF WHITE, ONE OF BLACK); DE KARPERS EN DE KRAB, 2003, THREECOLOR; OP DE KOP, 2003, TWO-COLOR; EBDIEP, 2006, TWO-COLOR. ALL WERE PRODUCED FOR FOR THE DUTCH PUBLISHER UITGEVERIJ (CONTACT). HAMMER BELIEVES THAT FOUR-COLOR OFFSET PRINTING IS OFTEN A WASTE OF TIME AND RESOURCES, AND HE OFTEN LISTS THE NUMBER OF COLORS USED IN A PROJECT AS EVIDENCE OF HIS LABOR- AND COST-SAVING EFFORTS.

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